Ever balked at the cost of a flight and wondered if it’s worth just taking the train instead? I’m Lizzie Goldsmith, a City Cast producer based in Denver, and I recently took Amtrak’s California Zephyr train from Denver to SLC. I’m here to tell you all about that 14-hour trip and whether it was worth it.
💰 Cost ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Coach tickets from Denver to Salt Lake range from around $55 one-way (what I spent) to $190, depending on how early you book. Upper and lower level seats cost the same. Sleeper cabin accommodations are much more expensive, starting at $500.
🧳 Boarding ⭐⭐⭐
Our conductor assisted with the boarding process, kept us updated on the schedule, and drew our attention to sights we might've otherwise missed. (Lizzie Goldsmith/City Cast Salt Lake)
Boarding the train was a fairly straightforward process, even though the signage at Denver’s Union Station and the seat assignment system could’ve been clearer. Amtrak's baggage policies are more generous than those of airlines, but if you're planning on checking a bag, or you want extra time to get your bearings, plan on getting there an hour before departure. Since I was only bringing one carry-on suitcase, though, I was able to just get in line, show my ticket, and walk on.
I was assigned an upper-level aisle seat. If that happens to you and you’d prefer a window seat, you can always check with the conductor. But if that doesn’t work out, there’s always the observation car.
🚞 The Journey ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
The sightseeing lounge is less crowded at night, but still a comfortable place to hang out. (Lizzie Goldsmith/City Cast Salt Lake)
The first thing I did was explore the train! The three coach cars were at the back, with bathrooms on the lower levels. Next was the observation car, with the sightseeing lounge upstairs and a grab-and-go cafe downstairs. And then, finally, the dining car.
All the food I had on the train from the cafe and dining car (a sandwich and a salmon dinner) was surprisingly good and fairly priced. And the views were amazing! I would've spent all my time in the sightseeing lounge, but that’s not good train etiquette. Still, I got my fill and met a lot of friendly people along the way, finding myself much more comfortable striking up conversations with strangers than I would've been on a plane.
The view from the observation car shortly before arriving in Winter Park, Colorado. (Lizzie Goldsmith/City Cast Salt Lake)
We briefly stopped in Winter Park, Granby, Glenwood Springs, and Grand Junction, Colorado, where we could get out and stretch our legs for a few minutes. We stopped in Utah a few times but had to stay on the train unless we were deboarding there. The train arrived in Salt Lake on time at 11:15 p.m.
💺 More Pros & Cons
Comfort ⭐⭐⭐⭐: The seats were much more comfortable and spacious than airplane ones, with a reclining back and a leg rest that let me extend most of my 5-foot-9 self. Not too shabby! Amtrak also offers a "comfort kit" for $20, which includes a blanket, inflatable neck pillow, ear plugs, and an eye mask. The temperature was also well-regulated; I don't remember ever feeling too hot or too cold.
WiFi/Cell Service ⭐: As I expected, the WiFi was unreliable and the cell service was spotty, especially through the Rockies.
Outlets ⭐⭐⭐: There were outlets in the observation car and at the window near my seat. If you’re seated on the aisle, however, you’ll have to reach past your neighbor to plug your devices in.
Bathrooms ⭐⭐⭐: The bathrooms are similar to what you'll find on an airplane, though some were larger to give you room to change clothes. No showers are available for coach passengers, however.
Dietary Restricted Food Options ⭐⭐⭐: There were a limited number of vegan and vegetarian options in both the cafe and dining car. Nothing was designated as gluten-free on either menu, however. You can find out more about Amtrak’s special menu selections here.
Water ⭐⭐⭐: There was a tap in the sightseeing lounge where you could refill your water
👍👎 My Verdict
The trip was definitely worth it for me, despite some minor inconveniences. While not time-efficient, it was largely cost-effective and both a relaxing and adventurous experience. I'll certainly be looking for more train travel opportunities in the future (though maybe not on the Salt Lake to Denver train, since that one departs at 3:20 a.m.!) 👀
